Our Mid Life Crisis Gap Year: Our Day Under the Tuscan Sun

Today we travelled from Florence to Cortona for the day. We caught the fast train which took about one hour and twenty minutes to travel the 122 kilometers distance - not bad considering this also included six stops along the way.

We arrived at Camuci-Cortona train station knowing we had to catch a bus or taxi to travel a further 3 kilometers to reach Cortona town. Once at Camucia we headed straight for the bus stop. It soon became evident that the bus timetable had absolutely no coordination with the train timetable. Indeed the bus time table was somewhat lacking in detail and didn't seem to make any sense at all. And of course no taxis at the taxi rank either, so after half an hour we decided to walk to the next bus stop. We sat at at this bus stop for about 20 minutes until we got fed up with that so decide to walk on further...big mistake...you guessed it...along came a bus. Why didn't we just walk to Cortona you may be asking? After all 3 kms is not that far, you may be thinking! Because the road to Cortona travels up, up, up, winding around 'hairpin bends' across the hillside.

The above photo was taken on our return trip to the station...anyway to cut a very long story short and two missed buses later we arrived at Cortona an hour and a half later. I'm convinced the three kilometer distance must be 'as the crow flies' because it sure seem considerably longer on the bus. In fact along the way there were four signs indicating 3 km to Cortona and all quite some distance apart??

As with all medieval towns here in Italy, Cortona was surround by a very high wall and its entry could be made via a gated archway, so naturally the bus had stopped outside the walls.

To reach the city centre you have to walk several hundred meters up very, very steep roads (internal dialogue groaned...not another bloody hill...I am so sick of F%&*@$# hills). So anyway onward and upward we marched.

I can tell you, once at the top it was worth it! We spent the rest of the day loving everything we saw. It's easy to see why famed author Frances Mayes (Under the Tuscan Sun) fell in love with Cortona and it's surrounding countryside so many years ago. Unlike other towns we'd visited so far it wasn't too crowded with tourists and the shops weren't filled with junky trinkets and memorabilia. Cafe and restaurant prices also were very reasonable, with some being the lowest prices we've seen to date in comparison to anywhere we've been in Italy.

On our way up to the centre we came across lovely elegant restaurant with a great looking menu...and so cheap. They had many interesting items we we're eager to try...but as we were not hungry we decided to return later for an early dinner sometime around 5.30 to 6.00. Couldn't leave it any later than this due to last train to Florence being about 7.30pm. I think Glenn salivated all afternoon thinking about the pidgeon ragu he was going to order and I'd spotted a scrumptious seafood dish.

A little further up we came to the town centre.

Piazza Garibaldi

View of Lake Trasimeno from Piazza Garibaldi

After sitting awhile and admiring the views from Piazza Garibaldi we strolled back towards the town centre and as I shop hopped, Glenn went in search of an information/tourist office in the hope of finding a bus timetable or least some sensible information...we didn't want another bus fiasco on our return journey. Success! Glenn had a detailed bus time table and we were set. A little later we came across a remarkable little shop advertising organic wine and olive oil. I must admit at first I was less interested in their produce and more interested in the building, especial it's interior.

In the past I'd often thought about designing and building a Tuscan or French Provincal style kitchen to run my Simply d'Vine cooking classes (for those of you who may not know, I used to run cooking classes for small corporate groups and I plan to do again upon our return to Oz). So you see I was more interested in getting the photos not the goodies. However Gabriella the lovely lady who owned the business and who's family (Romeo) produced the products on their organic farm was genuinely hospitable, so we sat for a tasting.

She was really passionate about her farm and the careful and nurturing processes they go through to ensure quality. Along with wine and olive oil they also produce dried pasta, pasta sauces, honey from their bees and biscuits, all of which she makes herself, accept "not the biscuits" she stated with honesty, not enough time, not enough time" She asked about our travels and seemed so impressed when we told her our plans. She declared "bella, bella, congratulations, how wonderful". Gabriella was more than happy for photographs to be taken and we were happy to purchase some goodies for tomorrow nights dinner - pappadella, wild boar ragu sauce and lemoncello, our favourite.

I really loved the stone walls, the rough plaster, the large stoned floor and the timber beamed ceiling.

The lovely Francesca

So if ever you are in Cortona you really must visit this farm shop...La Bottega dell'Eretico Enoteca. www.massimoromeo.it.

It was now 5.00pm and time to checkout when that lovely restaurant opened...DAMN. It didn't open until 7.30...far too late for us. We should have realised as many restaurants here in Italy don't reopen until 7.00ish, but we'd got used to the restaurants opening earlier in Florence. Fortunately some 50 metres away there was a Birra (micro brewery) called Birrificio Cortonesa we'd also spotted earlier in the day.

Sara pulling a pint

So a beer and snack would have to do. Lucky for us the restaurant was closed...their crafted brewed beer was delicious and their pizza was one of the best I've ever had...simple but so tasty.