Lucca

When we were planning our trip and Lesley was organising accommodation, one of the places we tried to book accommodation in was Lucca. However, we had a very bad experience with someone whom we will refer to as the "Rip-Off Merchant" who kept trying to get more money out of us by constantly changing the rates and/or conditions, so we cancelled and used Florence as a base to see Tuscany instead, and I think it turned out to be the better decisions anyway.

The problem is the "Rip-Off Merchant" had dirtied Lucca a bit for us, and we had not been in that much of a rush to go and visit there. However, today we decided to go and have a look, and boy are we glad we did, we loved it!!

The walls came into sight as we walked from the station

We took a late morning train that got us into Lucca just after midday. The old township of Lucca is only a couple of hundred metres from the rail station, and in no time at all we could see the walls, some buildings, and main gate to the old town.

Approaching the Main Gate

Entering Lucca for the first time

It was a strange feeling as it felt like seeing a long lost friend, we were here and it felt so good. Even though it was a hot day (again) there was a good cooling breeze blowing through Lucca, which really made it very comfortable to walk around and explore.

As soon as we were inside the walls and looking up and down streets it felt so right to be there. We had done a lot of research on places to go, and had seen so many photos of Lucca, but I would have to say that being there was so much better, you cannot feel the atmosphere of a place over the Internet.

Restaurants in Piazza Napoleione

We had taken it easy for the last couple of days with visits to our favourite Florentine swimming pool and catching up on this blog, and emails etc. so we felt well rested and were ready for a big day of walking around.

San Michele Church and Tower

I would have to say that Lucca, like many other places we have visited in Italy, is one of those places with photo opportunities every time you turn a corner, it is a great place. We sat in a nice shady part of Piazza San Michele and listened to the buskers for a while. Lesley was very tempted to buy their CD as well, there are a lot of very talented buskers around that can keep you entertained for hours.

Buskers in Piazza San Michele

After a while we moved on and with no particular route to follow meandered through the streets and laneways letting the turn of each corner surprise us.

Each lane way offered something new

Soon we found ourselves in a very familiar part of Lucca we were just outside of the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro. I could not tell you how many times we had walked around this area using Google Street View. The Piazza itself must also be one of the most photographed sights of Lucca, you find photos of it everywhere, but as I keep saying, it is not the same as actually being there...wow!

The southern gate to Piazza dell'Anfiteatro

One of many photos we took inside the Piaza dell'Anfiteatro

We explored the cafes, their menus, and the many shops in here for quite some time.

We eventually left the Piazza and moved on with our exploring. It was not very long before we found ourselves at the Basilica di San Frediano on the northern edge of the old walled town.

Basilica di San Frediano

Access up to the wall

Just in front of us was the wall and access up to it. So, making an on the spot decision, we looked at each other and said "it must be time to walk around the wall!". So off we went.

Taking in the views

The beautifully setup and maintain wall walk around Lucca

All in all we walked about a quarter of the length of the wall, after all we had to save our energy for walking inside the walls and taking in the town.

The walk around the section of walk that we took was on the north west side of the township and had great views into the old town as well as outstanding view out over the countryside to the distant mountains.

After completing about 1 kilometre of the wall, I think it runs for a total of 4 kilometres, we made our way back into the town.

Giacomo Puccini

We then came across a statue of Giacomo Puccini, a museum bearing his name and his house in Lucca. We had noticed a number of posters for concerts going on most evenings this month celebrating his music, if we had known earlier I think we would have gone to one.

We had been walking for a few hours now and found it necessary to take a Spritz Campari break in a great little bar that we stumbled across.

Spritz time

Soon one drink had turned to two, this is especially easy to do when they are supplying you with the famous Italian free plates of nibbles.

Just around the corner from the bar is the Torre Ore (the Clock Tower). Feeling quite refreshed and energised (it is surprising what two Campari's can do) I decided that for the cost of 4 Euros I would scale the 270 steps to the top of the tower..Lesley decided shopping was a better option, so off each of us went.

Torre Ore

The views from the top were great. I had panoramic views of the whole area as well as the rest of the town, it was so peaceful up there.

One of the photos I took from the top

The nearby Torre Guinigi

I must admit the journey down the steps was a lot quicker and involved a lot less puffing and panting.

Down at the bottom I located Lesley making her make-up purchase in a nearby store.

So off we went in a different direction to see what else we could see.

A little art gallery caught Lesley's eye

Looking up at Torre Guinigi

We walked towards Torre Guinigi and seemed to walk through a bit of an art gallery area. One in particualr would have made some sales if we thought we could easily have got some of the pieces home.

We then headed northwards again to see if we had missed anything. As it turned out we had, as this time we approached the Basilica di San Frediano from the front (not the back like last time) and we were confronted with a church with the most amazing mosaic on the front.

San Frediano with its mosaic front

It was now five o'clock and we were feeling quite hungry so we headed to a restaurant we liked the look of near the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro that had a great local foods menu. When we got there it was closed and was not reopening for two hours!!

We decided we could not wait that long and went off to find somewhere else to eat.

The problem with that is, Lucca does survive on tourism and therefore many of the restaurants cater for tourists by supplying pizzas and spaghetti meals and this was not what we were looking for.

Lesley's feet were about to pack in

I think we walked around half the town before succumbing to exhaustion and having to stop for another Campari Spritz break, but this time with a couple of bottles of water each.

Time to rest...again

We sat in a lovely tree shaded bar just off of Piazza Napoleone and relaxed with a nice glass each and some nibbles just watching the people and the scenery. Checking the time we found it was half past six, the restaurant we wanted to eat in would be opening soon.

So with feet reasonably well rested we made our way to the restaurant Baralla, and its menu with a very wide selection of local goodies to eat. The inside of the restaurant was amazing, brick arches and rounded ceilings, it had a great atmosphere.

Inside the restaurant

Wild Boar and Liver Pate with sauces

Wild Boar Ragu and Polenta

I can tell you now, you are lucky to get any photos with food left on the plates, we were starving. The food was fantastic we actually shared an appetiser of Wild Boar and Liver Pate....delicious. We then both chose the Wild Boar Ragu and Polenta, so tasty.

If you ever come across this beer, try it, its great!

I also came across a great Lucca Brewed beer that had been brewed with the addition of Chestnuts. I had to have a couple of these to decide whether I liked it or not...delicious and quite strong.

As we sat finishing our meal we could hear some amazing drumming coming from nearby.

Drummers inside Piazza dell'anfiteatro

On leaving the restaurant we headed into the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro to investigate, there were a group of 6 young buskers really getting the place rocking with their drumming, we sat and listened until they finished, they were brilliant.

Night time approaching

Once they had finished we decided to make our way slowly back to the station to catch the late train back into Florence.

Lucca lane ways at night

Duomo di San Martino at night

Let me tell you, Lucca looks just as amazing at night.

Leaving Lucca

A look back at Lucca's walls

We finally caught the last train and found ourselves to be the only ones in the carriage. We had about a one and a half hour trip home, no views, and nothing to do.....so we did the only thing left...we decided to misbehave, but not the way you are most probably thinking.......

Two idiots keeping themselves amused!

We arrived back in our room just before midnight, and fell asleep within minutes, dreaming about Lucca.

 

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